Tempting kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a haven for gastronomes, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this title, it joins a international community of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its deep-rooted culinary traditions and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of seventy urban centers around the world.
A City Defined by Food
The honor for this historic city comes as hardly a shock to its inhabitants or passionate food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is now in the global gaze for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually judged by the excellence of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and taken to exquisite levels in their opulent kitchens.
These royal kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the container's cover securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts remarkable seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is scientific and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however say that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will motivate more people globally to discover these narratives and visit the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.